Bountiful boysenberries

No other fruit speaks of Christmas in Nelson more than the boysenberry.

Boysenberries give the words plump, luscious and healthy new meaning; they are the ultimate berry.

Coming into season now makes them perfect Christmas fruit.

Nelson is the New Zealand home of boysenberries. Very picky about where they grow, they flourish here, and the only other countries in the world that produce them are North America and Chile. They like cool winters and a temperate spring and autumn.

Boysenberries were discovered in the United States in the 1920s – a cross between a loganberry, a blackberry and a raspberry. They arrived in New Zealand in the 1960s, and production has increased over the decades.

Nelson is the home of Berryfruit New Zealand, a co-operative of boysenberry growers from throughout the region who export their fruit collectively as well as selling it nationally. New Zealand now produces in the range of 3000 tonnes a year.

What we can claim about boysenberries is that those grown here have the highest levels of antioxidants in the world.

Mostly we rail against the hole in the ozone layer and our high levels of ultraviolet light, but these factors mean that boysenberries here are said to have been found to have the highest levels of antioxidants found in the fruit anywhere. The plant builds up a defence to combat the intense UV rays in this part of the world, and this concentrates antioxidants in the fruit.

The antioxidant values for blackcurrants, boysenberries and blueberries far outweigh those of others.

They are also high in vitamin C, fibre and ellagic acid, a compound that is an anti-carcinogen, anti-viral and anti-bacterial. What more could you ask for? Forget the apple a day and go for a plate of boysenberries instead.

There is no excuse for not eating them year-round, either. Nelson has a producer called Sujon that individually quick-freezes the fruit. Bags of Sujon frozen boysenberries and other berries, such as blackberries, blueberries and blackcurrants, can be found in the freezer section of New World, Pak 'n Save and Fresh Choice, retailing for about $9 a kilogram.

Sue and John Gibb were boysenberry growers in the 1980s, and an oversupply of fresh fruit led them to freeze the berries and to start looking for outlets for their products. Retailers and restaurants soon took advantage.

Sujon now distributes throughout New Zealand and, more recently, overseas, where demand is high, particularly among Asian consumers, who understand better than Kiwis the extraordinary high health benefits of berryfruit.

Boysenberries are a staple in icecream, yoghurts, smoothies and parfaits. They are delicious plain and fresh with a little icing sugar and cream. They are so good served this way that it isn't really necessary to do more. Gorge yourselves for the next month, and drive out to one of the various berry growers still operating close to Nelson.

Berryfields in McShane Rd, Appleby is the biggest supplier of boysenberries in the country, and its shop starts boysenberry sales this week. Don't delay, as the season is a short one, from mid-December to mid-January – so it is just as well that frozen berries taste so good as well.

Recipes

Boysenberries are an essential ingredient in the best breakfast yet: Swiss bircher muesli with boysenberries, yoghurt and maple syrup. Use Biofarm Organic Bush Honey Yoghurt and try the Woolworths brand of bircher muesli.

Soak the amount of muesli you desire in milk, to ensure that all the grains are moistened, for at least 30 minutes or overnight.

Place the muesli in a serving bowl and add thawed frozen boysenberries (fresh ones if you have them) to taste. Top the mixture with yoghurt and drizzle with maple syrup.


BOYSENBERRY TRIFLE
This is a delicious Christmas Day dessert. Feeds 4-6.

Sponge cake:

4 eggs
125g caster sugar
125g flour

50g unsalted melted butter Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius. Grease a medium springform pan with butter and then dust with flour.

Whisk the eggs and sugar until the mixture is light and airy (about 10 minutes).

Sift in the flour and add the melted butter. Pour into the pan and cook for about 30 minutes until done. Cool.

Store the cake for a couple of days in an airtight container. When you are ready to make the trifle, cut the cake into pieces about 2cm-3cm square and put in a large flat bowl. Sprinkle with sherry or brandy to taste.


Custard:

3 cups of milk
1/3 cup sugar
1 1/2 Tbsp flour
5 egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla

Heat the milk in the top of a double boiler.

Mix the sugar and the flour. Add to the egg yolks and beat together well.

Add the milk and stir with a wire whisk.

Return to the double boiler and cook over simmering water, stirring constantly, until thickened. Add the vanilla. Cool quickly.


Fruit and cream:

500g of fresh boysenberries, washed and cleaned
2 tbsp cassis liqueur
3-4 tbsp caster sugar
300ml cream
2 Tbsp icing sugar
1 tsp vanilla essence

Mash a few of the berries to create some liquid. Add the cassis and caster sugar and mix through all the berries. Let them soak together for at least a couple of hours.

Whip the cream and add the icing sugar and vanilla.

Assemble the trifle in a glass bowl so you can appreciate the layers.

First, layer the cake, followed by fruit and then custard. Repeat until you have used up all of the ingredients. Top with cream and refrigerate.


BOYSENBERRIES AND PEARS WITH MASCARPONE

For 4 people – adapted from a Cuisine magazine recipe. Vanilla sugar is made by blending 3-4 vanilla beans with 1 cup of caster sugar in a food processor until the vanilla is reduced to black dots.

2 pears, cored and halved
250g boysenberries
1 cup white wine
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup vanilla sugar
150g mascarpone

Bring the wine, water and vanilla sugar to a simmer and add the pears, simmering until tender (about 15-20 minutes).

Remove the pears to a serving dish and quickly add the boysenberries to the syrup for a minute or two. Remove and add to the pears.

Reduce the liquid to about half.

Mix together the mascarpone and 3-4 Tbsp of vanilla sugar (to taste).

Place a pear half and boysenberries on individual plates. Pour over some of the liquid and add a dollop of the mascarpone.

* Research by Elizabeth Latham and Serge Crottaz, of the School of Tourism, Hospitality and Wellbeing at the Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology. Fresh at NMIT appears fortnightly, exploring the local connection to food and beverages through the eyes of its leading hospitality educators.



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